In March 2020, we found ourselves in isolation. Confined to our houses with nothing else to do but let the creative juices flow, millions of people around the world started crocheting and the art form faced a boom in popularity.
After knitting several scarves, one of which was five feet long, I was bored of the repetition and searching for something different to do. One day while sifting through TikTok, a tutorial for a hat with cat ears popped up. Thinking it was very cool, I set out to make it for myself and decided to learn how to crochet. After all, how hard could it possibly be?
After sharing my plans to adventure into the world of crochet with my mother, she conveniently saved two crochet pattern books from a landfill. ‘Crochet For Beginners’ kicked me off to a great start and taught me all the basics, from different stitches to learning how to read patterns confidently. The second book was a vintage pattern book from 1978, containing fashionable items of the time. These books paired with a plethora of TikTok and Youtube tutorials, opened my eyes to the creative process of crocheting.
Crochet was invented as a cheaper alternative to traditional lace in mid-1820s Europe, with shepherds knitting and tambour embroidery as its precursors. The term ‘crochet’ wasn’t featured in English patterns until 1837, first being used in a book of knitting instructions called ‘The Ladies Knitting and Netting Book’, and mentioned in a coin purse pattern. The word originates from ‘croche’, French for hook. Both of its predecessors use hooks to make each piece, from garments to bags and even small rugs. By 1840, the art form was fast gaining popularity in England and Ireland, earning great recognition when Queen Victoria brought crochet lace from an Irish woman suffering due to the potato famine. She even learnt how to crochet herself, famously making scarves for eight veterans of the South African War.
The Guardian reported that there was a 140% increase in people learning the craft in 2020. One of the most notable faces who took up crocheting during this time is Tom Daley. He has been breaking gender stereotypes around traditional crafts and brought out his own knitting and crochet pattern book, ‘Made With Love’, in 2022. Daley brought it to a national audience while crocheting during the Tokyo Olympics, where he proudly wore his creations throughout the broadcast of the games and was even captured both crocheting and knitting while spectating other events from the audience.
Crochet has developed and modernised to fit in with the trends of every era. The 1920s saw crochet move from being an embellishment on other clothes to the development of whole garments. As a key part of the war effort, women in both Britain and the US were encouraged to get creative. With government-issued patterns for trench caps and ear protection used by the soldiers during the second world war, crochet was also encouraged to spice up already existing outfits with the make-do and mend attitude of the time.
The craft made its way back to high fashion during the 50s with beautifully tailored dresses being popularised but truly booming in the following two decades. The invention of the ‘granny square’ hit vogue creating a frenzy of patterns being produced that used the technique for everything from dresses, blouses and cardigans to blankets, coasters and handbags.
It is an art form that unites people in the most unlikely of places. Last November, I attended a show at the Roundhouse in London with some friends. Many of us wore crochet hats with cat ears made by myself. A kind stranger dressed in a Victorian Gothic fashion approached me complimenting the hats and we ended up chatting about our mutual love of crochet. She left and soon returned with a gift. Handing over a set of keyring crochet hooks she said, “I have more at home. Now you can crochet on the go”.
Love makes the world go round and crochet is filled with it. It is a craft that can not only bring joy to the crafter but to those gifted with such a personalised project. Eve Holmes (she/they) and I recently donated some surplus crochet items as raffle prizes for a fundraising event organised by Dirt Dykes to raise money for the food bank, Rainbow Junction. The event brought the community together as artists of all talents donated their time and work and raised over £200 on the raffle alone. So much time and effort goes into each crocheted piece, whether it’s a garment, a blanket or a teddy, it’s heartwarming to see items you come to love go towards a bigger, positive goal.
TikTok has helped start crochet’s resurgence by providing a platform for people to share their patterns, tips and makes with others online. Although not all of the interviewees first came to discover crochet through the app, all have commented on its undeniable influence on their crochet journeys. I spoke to three crocheters who’ve found a real sense of community in this hobby and are amongst some of the young people who are pioneering the modernisation of crochet.
York is a small city rich with history and the hometown of DJ and fibre artist, Eve Holmes (she/they). Making commission pieces of everything from jewellery to custom crochet garments, it’s clear that this is a passion amongst many for the young artist. Dressed in their favourite handmade pieces, we wandered the streets of York as they explained their journey into crochet that started during their first year of university.
“It was lockdown and I couldn’t leave my flat or my room. I was kind of stuck in a box so I ordered a big thing of wool off an old woman on eBay and started [crocheting]. Originally I started making animals and stuffed toys but then I started to move into clothes. I’ve made quite a few butterfly tops and they’re always fun to wear out. I get to say I made this”
A common trend I have found while interviewing others is that people seem to crochet to relieve tension from their daily lives. “I’m quite a restless person. Being able to sit and relax but still also get something out of that time is really fulfilling for me. It’s nice to be able to watch something but also feel like I’ve gained something out of that experience physically.”
Eve makes commission pieces, mostly for friends, and feels that the rise in the trendiness of crochet has made many devalue the craft. “I have sold a few things on Etsy. I think it’s quite difficult because it’s becoming quite trendy at the moment and people forget how much time and effort goes into it and the price of wool. There’s the fear that I’ll put my stuff out there, people will think it’s too expensive and no one will buy it”
One key thing to note about crochet as a craft is that it is completely handmade and not able to be replicated via a machine. This has created the question of ethics surrounding crochet pieces being sold in fast fashion stores, as a humane wage couldn’t be paid to workers under the prices they are charging. Many other crocheters have commented on this and about having to charge higher prices as an extensive amount of time goes into their garments. Leaving some feeling undervalued due to the comparatively low prices at fast fashion stores and the consumer's expectation of the cost.
Thea Jobson (she/they) and Holly Bav (she/her) are housemates and avid crocheters. They have found crochet to be a conversation starter and enabled them to form new friendships that may have otherwise not been made, including their own. Bonding over their mutual love of the art form during their first year of university, the artists have since moved in together and have covered their home in handmade oddities.
We met at their house late one morning and started the day with a cigarette in the garden chatting about fashion. Crochet has been seen more and more on runways in recent years, with Chloe incorporating crochet into several collections and Lowre’s Fall 2022 Collection featuring crochet as the main method behind their intricate dress designs.
Thea is a multi-talented fashion designer currently studying at Leeds Beckett University and is experienced in using all types of crafting methods to create elaborate looks. Thea’s mother brought them looms during the first lockdown but she yearned to learn to crochet. Gold struck when a family friend, who happened to be a dedicated crocheter in her youth, was parting with a large portion of her supplies which were kindly gifted to Thea via their grandmother. Starting to crochet using hooks as small as 0.2mm, Holly introduced them to other hook sizes eventually falling in love with the 5.5mm hook.
“I got a 5mm hook, then a 5.5mm and then it became a lot easier. I started learning all the different stitches and I bloody love a half-double crochet [stitch]. Then I started making things, but I’m still a bit wonky, to be honest.” Thea went on to recount the third lockdown, which was when crochet became a passion project. “All the fabric shops were shut and I needed to be able to make my silly little clothes so I was like right I’ll start crocheting. My sister got really good and I got really jealous so I started bashing it out more. I’d sleep in the day and be up in the night so there was nothing to do other than crochet and zone out.”
Three years after picking it up, Thea sports her biggest finished project to date, granny square trousers. The beautiful blend of autumnal colours of the pants brings out the red and orange racoon tails in their hair perfectly.
Holly Bav (she/her) found crocheting during the first lockdown and has developed a following of 74,700 on TikTok with her tutorials, tips and outfit videos. She runs an online store selling custom-made crochet pieces and reworked items using second-hand clothing called bavstck.
But crochet is not just a hobby they can make some money off for the pair. Both find that crocheting has anxiety-relieving effects and also brings about a sense of accomplishment with a finished piece. “It’s just been such a consistent hobby and I’ve got so many other hobbies that I pick up and try to do but I always come back to crochet. It’s just something that you can do without thinking, it’s part of my meditation and just my daily life.” We all collectively agree with Holly’s thoughts.
“I love how portable it is as well! It’s something you can do from your bed so no matter what mood you’re in or what state [you’re in] physically or mentally. I find that I love taking it to places where I’m socialising because I find socialising quite hard. But if I’ve got crochet with me, I don’t have to think about speaking as much. I can listen to other people's conversation and just listen while making something”
Crochet is a beautiful traditional craft, rich in history and a passion personal to each crocheter. It can create community, large and small, in any environment. If you’re looking for a relaxing hobby where you can celebrate the fruits of your labour, find your local craft store and pick up a hook too.
